Morris’ Aspire 5920 CPU Swap/upgrade
- posted by Morris Lee on May 18th, 2010


- (60)
Hello to all! Yes it has been a while since you have heard from me!
Apart from one of my other articles, the “Morris’ Aspire 5920 GPU Swap/upgrade”, use that as a reference for part of the dis-assembly for the cover and the GPU, now we are going to swap the heart of the 5920G out!
–Sorry for the poor image quality as I don’t have an actual camera for the pictures–
**Warning! Do this in your own risk, please observe other similar modifications and understand your own skills on these tiny operations, unplug the computer and eject the battery for safer working environment. REQUIRES A STEADY HAND for the physical part. I am not able to hold responsible for any damages to your own systems.**
Table of contents:
1a. Suggested Tools
1b. Materials
2a. Removing the back panel
2b. Screws and wires need to be removed
2c. Removing the heatsink
3a. Removing the CPU
3b. Installing the new CPU
4a. Putting everything back
5a. Remarks
6a. References
6b. Contact
1a. Suggested Tools
philips screw driver
flat-head screw driver
1b. Materials
Aspire 5920
Thermal Paste (Arctic Silver 5 or better)
Socket P (PPGA478) FSB 667 or 800MHz only compatible CPU (check here
2a. Removing the back panel
Remove the screws indicated above in red circles to pop open the back panel
2b. Screws and wires need to be removed

The 3 wires (two wireless antennas and fan power) can be removed by pulling them off gently, the screw in the battery compartment circled is for easier removal for the heatsink later.

The reds are the screws already removed for removing the GPU module, the ones in green has to unscrewed, the 4 silver ones(with springs) will stay on the heatsink even if it is unscrewed, that’s normal.
2c. Removing the heatsink

Pull on the edge where the smallest arrow is pointing up(close to the screw we removed in the battery compartment before), as it is lifted, pull the heatsink towards the harddrive and angle up slightly at the same time.
3a. Removing the CPU

Turn counter clock wise with a flat head screw driver on the “screw” just above the CPU to loose up the socket, pull out the CPU.
3b. Installing the new CPU

install the new CPU at the same orientation as the old one(notice the little copper/yellow arrow), turn the “screw” clock wise to lock it. Use some new Arctic Silver 5 on top of the CPU(put half of what I put there
I put too much at the time of picture taken)
4a. Putting everything back

Insert the heatsink back at the same angle you pulled it out(make sure the thermalpads for the northbridge on the heatsink is not damaged), screw the 4 silver screws on, and the 2 other screws indicated in green, insert the GPU and put back the 4 screws that holds the GPU(the screws marked in red above)
Don’t forget to reinsert the fan cable and the wireless cables!!!
5a. Remarks
I got this CPU from u6b36ef user.
6a. References
http://ark.intel.com/ProductCollection.aspx?familyId=26548
6b. Contact
If you have other questions, please reply on the bottom here, www.theacerguy.com or Email me at morrismurphy@gmail.com
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Michael Walsh wrote, on May 18th, 2010:
You are officially certifiable.
Thanks for this Morris. You’re one in a billion.
adm15 wrote, on May 31st, 2010:
wow morris, been waiting for this. still have to order my cpu though! what would you recommend?
adm15 wrote, on May 31st, 2010:
any heat problems?
Morris Lee wrote, on May 31st, 2010:
@adm15,
The T7700 gets pretty hot comparing to the T8300. So, if you are not looking for that extra 1MB of cache, go to the T8300, 45nm, is much much cooler.
The T7700′s absolute max I have was 97c, but that was when the paste have not yet settled and I have applied too much, still got to redo the paste sometime, however, I can game for hours without any problems.
Morris Lee
Tberg wrote, on June 1st, 2010:
Nice guide there Morris.
I was actually preparing myself for an upgrade. However i chose an ignorants path.
I seperated the whole thing. and i see know, that you only removed the back plate hehe. thats very clever
So. If you choose to upgrade to lets say a T8xx model or t9xx which have a smaller nm technology. in order to cool in properly, will a “Copper-mod” be prefered?
What is the MAX CPU upgrade you can get btw? for the santa rosa MOBO? Is it the T9500?
Tberg wrote, on June 1st, 2010:
Edit to my former post.
I noticed that there is no black “plastic label” at your heatsink. where the MXM card should be sitting.
Mine has that, i was wondering if you had removed yours, and if so. why?
Morris Lee wrote, on June 1st, 2010:
@Tberg,
There is no space for copper mod, as it does not use any thermalpads, it is direct contact with some paste that is it.
You can get T9500, it is theoretically the most powerful one you can get, as it still has 800MHz FSB that 5920 can handle.
Yes, I have removed the black square thing, I had to fit the copper, I think that is why I moved it. Keep it if you can, it is more of a safety thing.
Morris Lee
u6b36ef wrote, on June 2nd, 2010:
@ Morris,
Man, in the 45nm tech, there are also
X9000 – 2.8 GHz, 6MB, 800MHz (fsb) 1.000V-1.275V
X7900 – 2.8 GHz, 4MB, 800MHz.
The X denotation: Intel® Core™2 Extreme Processor X9000; may signify overclockabilty, (if you can cool it).
The T8300 did need a Cu mod. I will post the depth dimension of asap, because I have just found access to a micrometer. (Or I may treat myself to buying it, or a Vernier Caliper).
Granted the T8 series has 1MB less cache that the T series. Regardess the equivalent clock speed T8 will out perform the T7. (Clock for clock).
A T8100 (at 2.1 GHz) is within absolute allmost equivalent benchmark of the T7500 (at 2.2 GHz) Likewise the T83 is like a T7 series 2.5 GHz (if there were one).
U6b36ef.
Additional information why the 45nm is faster.
I started a PhD in Cmos circuit chip design (years ago – didn’t finish). At an invitation lecture I learned something interesting about the nature of dimishing technology size. As Cmos channels reduce in size the capcitance(C), and resitance(R), intrinsic values reduce. Since the time constant of circuits (tau) is related to C and R values, inherent switching times ‘naturally’ increase.
Greek letter τ (tau), is the risetime characterizing the response to a time-varying input of a first-order, [ref 1]. This is independant of the system clock, which is driving/synchronising the circuitry. An Increase in risetime means the circuit reacts faster to a signal ‘to switch’.
It makes you wonder if the clock would go faster too, in 45nm tech, but after all, a GHz is a GHz, heeehee!
Reference(s)
1. Wikipedia. Time constant.
u6b36ef wrote, on June 2nd, 2010:
CORRECTION:
Granted the T8 series has 1MB less cache that the *T7* series.
PS Watch out for and probably avoid the engineering sample T9 series CPU’s on eBay. They are often listed as T9500 (for example), but in fact have a four number Q— model number.
Tberg wrote, on June 2nd, 2010:
@u6b36ef
You said be aware of “ES” models.
I have found here a T8300 which i belive to be a OEM version.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Intel-Core-2-Duo-T8300-2-40GHz-3M-800-Processor-SLAPA-/350360535096?cmd=ViewItem&pt=CPUs&hash=item51931d8038
Note it says it is a: “SLAPA”
And not a SLAYQ
Also is you dont have any real modified cooling, what you be the recommended upgrade?
Thanks
Tberg.
u6b36ef wrote, on June 2nd, 2010:
@ Tberg,
The SLAPA is ok. It’s a genuine finished Intel product.
Let me show the Intel site that clarifies the information.
Type the processor SLAPA or T8300 into google. Take the ‘ark.intel.com/product’ link. In this case for your choice: http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=33099
Scroll to the bottom of the page. There is a list of all the CPU types made in T8300 format.
If you see this information, it is a boxed CPU, which you can from a computer store.
Boxed Intel® Core™2 Duo Processor T8300 (3M Cache, 2.40 GHz, 800 MHz FSB) uFCPGA8.
BX80577T8300
If it says ‘tray’ at the end, it will have been sold to a laptop manufacturing company in a tray.
Intel® Core™2 Duo Processor T8300 (3M Cache, 2.40 GHz, 800 MHz FSB) uFCPGA8, Tray
FF80577GG0563M
(A tray of processors – wow, that wets the imagination).
The number FF80577 you can see on the processor that you are watching on ebay.
This is the way to check the CPU before purchase. For the Acer Aspire 5920, make absolute sure you are buying a socket 478 CPU: ‘PGA478′. Sometimes listed as socket P. The BGA or 479 or BGA479 will not fit into a 5920.
NOTICE too that there is an Ordering & Sampling Information version of the T8300. This model is also a proper Intel finished version of the CPU. It is a PGA478 – SLAYQ, tray version: FF80577GG0563M
REFERENCE: ENGINEERING SAMPLES -I can’t find and ‘engineering sample’ of a T8300 to show you. Here is an example of a T9500 in both correct version, and an ‘engineering sample’ version.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Intel-Core2-Duo-Mobile-Processor-T9500-SLAYX-TOP-NEW-/170490369338?cmd=ViewItem&pt=CPUs&hash=item27b204953a
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Intel-Core2-Duo-Mobile-Processor-T9500-Q9WW-TOP-NEW-/180508743268?cmd=ViewItem&pt=CPUs&hash=item2a0728d664
Note the four digit model number starting with Q; T9500-Q9WW. Engineering samples are often ‘unfinished or incomplete’ versions of the CPU. For example I saw on a forum someone had accidentally bought one, and the temperature monitoring facility wasn’t included. It showed up in system information as an engineering sample CPU. Also, I see on forums, it is illegal to sell engineering sample CPU’s.
PLEASE give me 24 hours to come back to you for information about copper modding. (Plus information about which CPU to choose if you don’t copper modify.)
U6b36ef
Tberg wrote, on June 2nd, 2010:
Thank you Mr.
This was very useful information. Yeah a tray of processors….. comes in trays of 100′dreds
————–
Got another question
got loads hehe.
When looking at the 5920gs heatsink, on its backside there are 1 thermal pad for something on the chipset (or at least there is on mine).
And some thermal compound for the CPU i think. There was also like a “soft blue moduable compound, like at thermal pad, but other material.
How does that heat/thermal pad stick yo the heatsink? Because when to buy the thermal pads there is no glue or anything on it, or so i have read.(unlike the soft blue thing which was obviously sticky by it self)
TO the front side again. On Morris’ piture you can the thermal grease on four spots, i guess this is where he used to have thermal pads(how did you make them stick btw) which has now been replaced with coppermods.
i know, loads of questions. but i have to know
Best Reagards
Tberg.
Kevin wrote, on June 3rd, 2010:
Excellent guide just done my 5920g t7300 to t 9300 only bit had probs with was gettin CPU out just gotta turn the screw a little bit more to you hear a click but not to harsh tho
adm15 wrote, on June 4th, 2010:
so… im planning on getting new cpu maybe november at the earliest. will t8300s still be available then?
Morris Lee wrote, on June 5th, 2010:
@adm15,
You can probably still find them on ebay and stuff. they go after what the retail can hold usually.
Morris Lee
u6b36ef wrote, on June 7th, 2010:
@ Tberg,
I used a piece of copper mod of 0.6mm thick for a T8300. However I think thinner would be ok, eg 0.35mm. (A thinner mod would be more desirable too)
Until I, or someone has fitted a T9300 to the 5920, and made a report here, I can’t be sure which is the CPU of choice without modding. Let me explain.
The core of the T8100 and the T8300 is smaller in length and width dimension, compared to T7300-T7700. After fitting the T8300 only moments after boot the T8300 went into the 80′C-90′C temp range. I found I needed a copper mod. This led me to the conclusion the core had a thinner height dimension too. I cut a piece of copper, pasted, fitted it and the temps are fine.
The T9300 has a core of VERY SIMILAR length and width dimensions of the T7300-T7700. Therefor it might not need a copper mod; I cannot venture a ‘guess’, and instruct someone.
Kevin in post,’Kevin wrote, on June 3rd, 2010:’, has fitted T9300.
What are his temperatures, did he modify??
There is the answer to the question of which is the better CPU with or without heat sink copper modification.
If you you don’t want to modify, the T7 series are the most powerful CPU’s. If the T9 series work without a mod, obviously they are better. (However I thought you were comfortable with the idea of copper modding.)
Which CPU you choose is a personal decision. Personally I hold the 5920 in quite high regard.
1. I like the pale keys and black letters. It is technically easier to read black on white, rather than white letters on black.
2. The rear access panel is a masterstroke. As you have discovered, it is not neccessary to remove the whole lower section of the laptop, to maintain, and clean the fan and vents.
3. And so on!!
Therefore spending cash on CPU is probably an ok decision. It depends on budget and what you have installed.
I wouldn’t spend £200 on a T9500, since a T9300 can be found occaisionally for £100, which is still a bit expensive. (Save £100 and contribute to a GPU, or Windows 7)
One way to value you laptop is: if the motherboard died would you pay a lot of money for a new or second hand one? Common sense is the key.
As for your latest question:
I have understood Morris’s heatsink in the same way you have.
Thermal pads are like soft rubbery blue-tac, and cold to the touch. Yes there is a thermal pad between the Northbridge of the chipset, and the heatsink.
Thermal pads don’t need sticking. They hold (adhere) themselves in place. If yours comes off during CPU change, put it back over the chipset Northridge, then replace your heatsink.
As for copper modding in general – I have taken my lead from Morris.
U6b36ef.
Steve wrote, on June 8th, 2010:
Hi.
I just took apart my 5920g, mostly to see what it was like inside.
I found a few things:
my heatsink/fan were caked in dust,
there was never a bluetooth module installed,
and that my cpu’s thermal compound was melted.
This last part is the one that concerns me.
Sometimes the laptop runs at over 100 C.
The compound around the cpu was dried up and hard and looked like it melted out from between the heatsink and cpu.
Is this a problem, and do you think I should take it back apart and put new thermal compound on the cpu?
Thanks for any help.
Also, completely unrelated, but I was wondering if anyone here would know how I could replace the optical drive in my laptop with a HDD, if the HDD is SATA and the ODD connection is slim ATApi.
Morris Lee wrote, on June 8th, 2010:
@Steve,
the compound is NOT melted, it is suppose to be a thick paste, slightly thicker than the thickness of toothpaste.
I would recommend putting new compound in between it as it has dried up already.
Some models of the 5920 does not come with bluetooth, so that is normal.
Morris Lee
AF wrote, on June 13th, 2010:
Hi everyone,
Thanks for all the information, this is really helpful and good to know.
I would like to just get your confirmation that it’d be worth/safe in swaping my T5750 processor for the T9300.
Considering the minor spec differences, would there be any worthwhile advantages in getting the T9500.
I’d appreciate your help.
AF wrote, on June 13th, 2010:
Hey again
I’d also like to ask whether the processor models with faster bus speeds of 1066mhz would work with the 5920g.
If so – what do you guys reckon would be the best processor to go with?
Cheers
Morris Lee wrote, on June 13th, 2010:
@AF,
anything other than 667 or 800MHz FSB will not work, as those are the only 2 supported FSB by the chipset on the 5920G PM965.
It is not that worth it to get the T9XXX series, they are only slightly more beefed up in the cache over the T8XXX series, hence the T8XXX is much much more affordable and performs almost the same.
Go with the T8300 if you can, low heat, gets the job done.
Morris Lee
AF wrote, on June 13th, 2010:
Thanks for your reply Morris
Now that I know that, I’m looking at the T8300 and T9300 – there’s only £10 difference on ebay – so the 9300 seems worth it for the added benefits.
Is there likely to be much heat difference between these two? Is it the clock speed/wattage/lithography that makes the most difference in heat?
I’ve been looking to equalise the difference between my Acer and my colleagues overpriced Mac. Ha. So the T9300 seems ideal.
I appreciate your help man.
AF wrote, on June 13th, 2010:
Oh yeah – I need the PGA478 socket version right?
Thanks
Morris Lee wrote, on June 13th, 2010:
@AF,
T9300 might be ok if you can find it cheap, but it might be hotter than the T8300.
Socket P or sometimes known as PGA478(but this is kinda vague as old Pentium 4′s uses PGA478 socket), so look for Socket P as there are other types of socket uses 478 pins
Morris Lee
Tberg wrote, on June 18th, 2010:
In regards to the pm965 MOBO. and CPU upgrades for it. One should always look for the P Socket or more precisely PGA478. So much i have understood from above posts (thanks)
Does the Stepping or SPEC code, matter at all?
exampel. The T8100 has M0 and C0 steppings.
http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=33916
Thank you for all the information posted here indeed very helpful.
Morris Lee wrote, on June 19th, 2010:
@Tberg,
The stepping is the revision of the CPU model, so you need to find out which is actually newer one, but take into consideration, read through the BIOS change log for the 5920 BIOS see if they mention anything about the stepping as if they cover the work around for fixing issues for the older revisions.
Morris Lee
u6b36ef wrote, on June 20th, 2010:
@ Tberg,
I think the PM965 supports 478 and 479.
http://ark.intel.com/chipset.aspx?familyID=28116
@ AF,
I think the 5920 Aspires are all socket P (micro flip chip pin grid array uFC-PGA) 478: Intel Mobile Core 2 Duo.
To be sure; download CPU-Z, install/run, and use the first tab for CPU (identification and socket/package).
U6b36ef.
Morris Lee wrote, on June 20th, 2010:
@u6b36ef,
I would not bet my money on it, plus, CPU-Z is a third party app, you never know how wrong the info is actually.
Morris Lee
u6b36ef wrote, on June 20th, 2010:
@ AF,
You can cross reference with other applications like Sisoft Sandra Lite, and Everest, to ID your socket. Or google for ‘CPU socket type’, applications.
@ Morris,
Fine. The Service manual I have seen shows the CPU package as 479 on page five, in chapter one. Yet the Field Replacement Unit chapter only lists socket 478′s.
However, I have only heard of 478′s, in 5920′s ans 5920 forums.
U6b36ef.
Tberg wrote, on July 22nd, 2010:
Hello there. An upgrade report.
I have JUST recently upgraded 5920g T5550 –> T8300
And it works, It seems to run cooler (by far) I did not add a “copper mod” THere was simply not room for it, in my case.
I need to run some CPU tests to verify its stability ofc. but for now its works im happy. T8300 was from ebay, bought for 40$US -postage.
Tberg
Morris Lee wrote, on July 23rd, 2010:
@Tberg,
Wow, $40 is a great price! congrats to another success!
Morris Lee
Tberg wrote, on July 23rd, 2010:
Thank you
but again, with your, and this community’s expertice backing me up
What can go wrong?
Thanks for all of your support.
Morris Lee wrote, on July 23rd, 2010:
@Tberg,
Anytime my friend!
Morris Lee
U6b36ef wrote, on September 3rd, 2010:
@ Tberg, Morris and co,
An update is needed to the post I made here at, ‘u6b36ef wrote, on June 2nd, 2010:’
The ark Intel website I directed to for CPU identification, has been changed in format by Intel.
Following on, using again your inquirey about the T8300 as an example. Take the link, http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=33099
Only now don’t scroll to the bottom of the page to identify CPU model number and exact socket type. Click the ‘ordering/s specs/steppings’ link.
U6b36ef
easteregg wrote, on November 1st, 2010:
hey,
you may want to undervolt your T7700 cpu (or any other) if it gets to hot. have you tried yet?
i upgraded to the core2extreme x7900 cpu in my aspire 5920g and i had to undervolt it and now it works well it never gets warmer than 60 degrees ;D
U6b36ef wrote, on November 2nd, 2010:
@ Morris
@ and CPU upgrading community
I think some extra info needs adding to the post I made, u6b36ef wrote on June 2nd, 2010:
I had named other CPU’s in the socket P (478) range with 800MHz FSB.
There is discrepancy though as to which would be advisable in the 5920.
The 2.4GHz T7700 Merom core may be the last advisable Merom CPU for the 5920. I reached 83′C using good thermal paste.
There is a 2.6GHz T7800, which may just be OK.
There is also the 2.6GHz X7800 and 2.8GHz X7900, in the Merom core. I could not necessarily recommend them though for the 5920. They have the same Tjunction temp of 100′C as the T7700 for example. However the X (extreme Merom) CPU have a higher TDP.
The T8, T9 and X9 series with the Penryn core 800FSB, do perform cooler and quicker. (That’s clock for clock in comparison with Merom).
U6b36ef
easteregg wrote, on November 2nd, 2010:
The 2.4GHz T7700 Merom core may be the last advisable Merom CPU for the 5920. I reached 83′C using good thermal paste.
—
if you want a faster one the x7900 is also advisable that’s the one that i’m using but i am not sure if you need any higher.
i believe the x7800 and the 7900 are even overclockable to 3,4 GHz but i am not sure if that’s possible due the heat.
(keep in mind that undervolting is required the 5920g can’t handle the heat without.)
little screenshots i made when typing this
http://www.mediafire.com/i/?r7uskkpye8c9ev7
http://www.mediafire.com/i/?7xi9ddjysrqerbm
i would definitely advise the t7700 anyhow
good luck! =D
U6b36ef wrote, on November 3rd, 2010:
@ easteregg,
Yeah I know. I had been planning to write that last post (U6b36ef wrote, on November 2nd, 2010) for some time. It was not intended as a reply to your 1st Nov posting.
Actually I did not see your 1st Nov post until after I had uploaded my 2nd Nov post.
Yeah I agree with your points. The ‘X’ denotation means extreme. I think that signifies, designed for overclocking – if you can keep it cool I.E. within normal operating temps.
The main reason I made that post was to update the info I made, June 2nd, 2010:
I thought more info was needed. Otherwise the impression might have been a recommendation, for CPU’s found difficult to cool. (Without pointing out that the CPU’s needed extra methodology to cool them). I just wrote, “if you can cool it”
U6b36ef
Tberg wrote, on November 6th, 2010:
@ the right person:)
Have you tried yo Overclock your CPU in the 5920g?
And what tools have you used for it?
Tberg.
Morris Lee wrote, on November 6th, 2010:
@Tberg,
no, I have not tried it, HAHA, it gets hot enough!
Morris Lee
easteregg wrote, on November 7th, 2010:
@Tberg,
i wish i knew how to …
Morris Lee wrote, on November 7th, 2010:
@easteregg,
I know it has to do with the BIOS, if we had the source of it, maybe, haha
U6b36ef wrote, on November 9th, 2010:
It took three mins to google and find this, http://laptoplogic.com/resources/detail.php?id=15
easteregg wrote, on November 10th, 2010:
that didn’t work on my aspire.
bytheway my 5920g broke 2 days ago :S
U6b36ef wrote, on November 12th, 2010:
@ easteregg,
Hello easteregg. Sad you be must for your 5920 dying. If you are not too sure what to do about your 5920, then look to the forum link for 5920′s and search the lists. You may see a symptom like yours, with an answer.
If you don’t see a link that describes your situation, then you could start a new thread/blog.. If your 5920 is dead like no lights anywhere, check your charger. (To rule out motherboard).
Back to CPU.
I was curious how your CPU looked in something like CPU-Z, or Core Temp.
I recently purchased a CPU which looks completely like a production CPU. However it is showing up as an Engineering Sample (ES) CPU. I am in contact with Intel about it, since I have used their Processor ID Utility, which shows it as ES. (It was an Ebay purchase which is in dispute for return).
I’m specifically interested in your CPU because you are/were running over 2.4 GHz. (Long story and daft theory of mine, but please humour me.)
Generally in device manager, or system information the CPU looks normal. In specific hardware analytical software it looks like ES.
Please, if you remember did your CPU say “(ES)” in CPU-Z at the end of the specifcation window. (Or in Core Temp)
U6b36ef wrote, on November 18th, 2010:
@ In response to my above message.
I found out what was going on with this CPU I had that showed up as Engineering Sample, but looking as a production model.
I just had a theory it might be the system BIOS not having CPU names, that showed over 2.4GHz. Generally becuase I had seen 5920 shipping up to 2.4GHz.
Therefor I wondered if other users had seen this. If so I could maybe assume the CPU I had was genuinely a production model, and could persue ligitimised proof.
U6b36ef
easteregg wrote, on November 27th, 2010:
i did send my laptop to acer 2 weeks ago.
i still haven’t heard from them.
they will tell me soon what the repair will cost.
the motherboard might be broken due the heat.
@U6b36ef
it might be true it’s the bios,
it’s sad i can’t take a look right now.
however i can’t remember cpu z saying (es) or similar with the x7900 replaced cpu i used.
U6b36ef wrote, on November 28th, 2010:
@ easteregg
Thanks a zillion for you reply. Like I said in last post I made, I figured out what was wrong. It’s good to know that it was not in any way a fault in the 5920, and was entirely a bad CPU.
U6b36ef wrote, on December 8th, 2010:
@ Tberg,
I found that Nvidia ntune has a motherboard settings page. There is application to alter CPU timings and voltages.
http://www.nvidia.com/object/ntune_5.05.47.00.html
I don’t do it myself, but if you are interested, the ntune gadget is well worth a look.
U6b36ef
adm15 wrote, on January 2nd, 2011:
Hey guys, looking for a cheap quality t8300. I live in manila though so hard to come by those. Shipping is always expensive. Most of what i found will come from the other side of the world. Tips and links are definitely welcome. Happy new year!
U6b36ef wrote, on February 10th, 2011:
@ adm,
I have a T8300 which I think I will sell. I looked over eBay and mostly the cheapest overseas sales of T8300 are about £85 included post. I think I could compete and be cheaper.
U6b36ef.
adm15 wrote, on February 12th, 2011:
@u6b36ef
great. can i get your email?
U6b36ef wrote, on June 25th, 2011:
@ Tberg,
About undervolting. I mentioned earlier that Ntune has a tool to do it. This is true, but, however, I don’t think it works on the 5920. If you download the supporting document for Ntune, you will see there is an explanation how to use the motherboard settings controls. This inclused all the volts, clocks, fans etc.
I have seen this settings page once in Ntune but I don’t remember if it was on a 5920. (I was very nervous and closed it down, before I had an accident.)
There are specific points to this though.
1. Ntune needs an nForce board to run the motherboard settings function.
2. Ntune seems fickle. Sometimes the GPU settings page will open; sometimes it is not even there as an option to choose from. (On the same computer.)
@ adm15,
At the time I thought against putting up my email address here. However the T8300 I had has been put to use for now. If you are still needing a T8300 the eBay prices have dropped spectacularly. Time for a bargain.
The Penryn core CPU’s are definitly the right choice. Don’t hesitate to be confident they make the best results in every way. (Do an internet search about Penryn core if you don’t know what I mean. You most likely do tough.)
While the T8300 is at a good price, my heartfelt advice would be choose the T9300. The T9300 prices are reducing all the time, on eBay, so they most likly will fit into a neat budget.
The reason why I recommend the T9300 is it’s just simpler to fit. The T8300 sometimes needs a copper shim. (Just like you may find people using for their GPU cards.) You see the core of the T8300 is minute compared to the Merom core CPU’s.
Tberg reported that the T8300 fitted ‘without’ a copper shim — I found it ‘needed’ one.
I concluded that there might be differences in the heatsinks; either by design or just general variations.
Good luck, and I hope it works out OK.
Robert wrote, on November 22nd, 2011:
Hey guys,
This is very interesting! I have had an acer 5920G for nearly 5 years now and it has served me very well indeed!
I have upgraded the graphics card from geforce 8600m GT 256mb to an ATI mobility 4670 1gb. I have also upgraded the ram to 4gig ddr2 (shame it doesnt support ddr 3
).
I have plans to upgrade my hardrive to a 500gb momentus XT 7200 hybrid drive.
My 5920g came with the T9300 2ghz installed already. I’m interested in upgrading it and wondered if you guys think it would be worth while? I’m looking into a T9500 2.6 ghz or a X7900 2.8ghz just wondering if you guys could give me any advise?
Robert wrote, on November 23rd, 2011:
Sorry I made a typo, my 5920G came with a T7300
Liam wrote, on December 9th, 2011:
Hi guys, newbie here who wants to upgrade same laptop.
Robert, I want to upgrade to the same GPU as you. Is there any software/mods required to install it? I also currently have a T7300 and a 8600M GT 256Mb. Also doesn’t the 4670 get quite hot? And what’s the performance increase like?
I’ve also considered a CPU upgrade to a T9500/x9000 or this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Intel-E8235-SLAQB-2-8GHz-6M-1066-T9600-beat-X9000-/280725880831?pt=CPUs&hash=item415c90ffff
Liam wrote, on December 15th, 2011:
Derp ignore the link I posted. Seems the T9500 is the best way to go. X9000 doesn’t have very nice power consumption.
I’ll probably post back in 2 months telling everyone it was a massive failure, but it’s worth a try
jonno wrote, on January 10th, 2012:
Hey, i just got my t8300 today. I ordered it on ebay. I have the 5920g that came with a t5250, so the boost would be big. i just installed the processor and went to boot up, and now im having problems. The power light turns on and the fan starts running, then shuts down after about three seconds, though the power light is still one. The screen remains black the whole time. Anyone know what might be the problem? I used thermal paste on the cpu, but perhaps not enough. I covered the thing in a thin layer. I suddenly starting to wonder if the chip is not socket p or whatever. it has a return policy if i return it quick, but as i got it for 38 dollars its not a huge deal if its the wrong one but it will still be a bummer. Oh, i just looked at my purchase on ebay and it says its packaging is 479-ball Micro FCBGA. Does that mean i’ve got one thats incompatable. please let me know what you think. Thanks
jonno wrote, on January 11th, 2012:
K, update from yesterday. I tried reinstalling the card and it works now.
Dont know what the deal was. Maybe i didnt have enough thermal paste, or maybe i didnt screw the cpu down tight enough. regardless, it works.
U6b36ef wrote, on January 19th, 2012:
@ Robert,
Yes the T9300, T9500 or X9000 are fine choices.
(The T8300 is at bargain prices now, and a very capable CPU. However you might need a thermal pad, or copper shim to cool it. The info is all on this page, just above.)
Avoid the X7900, because it is in the previous tech version , compared to the T9300 etc. Therefor the X7900 will get quite hot. I had the T7700 in the 5920 and it peaked at 83′C. The X7900 is 400MHz faster and will get warmer still.
Since your GPU is a warm running model, you may put more heat on the 5920 cooling than it is specified to dissipate. Morris made 97′C with just a T7700. Anything more than 105′C and the CPU will shut down. Remember the heatsinks are one unit. More heat from one source will mean less cooling for another.
Unless of coure you choose to undervolt, then you’d be fine, according to reports on this page. However the T series CPU’s are very nice, and that X9000 looks tasty.
@ Liam,
I would not be concerned with the X9000 power consumption. I doubt it is more than the T7700, but it’s a long time since I looked at the specs. You might be meaning watts TDP, but I think the 5920 can cope with cooling the X9000. If in doubt the T9500 will not overheat.
Don’t buy the SLAQB from eBay unless you are prepared to modify your motherboard. Look for CPU’s with FSB up to, and preferably at 800MHz. Any higher and the laptop will not boot, without modding to make the board FSB go at 1066MHz.
@ jonno,
I don’t know what you are doing with a 479 FCBGA (flip chip ball grid array). The 5920 uses the socket 478 FCPGA (pin grid array).
Also often the laptop will not start if the CPU locking screw is not turned to locked.
U6b36ef.